Whangamata, New Zealand a surf beach like no other.

Snug in bed I smile back at the smiling majesty of Whangamata Beach stretched out languid below me. Patrolled by the sleeping giant of the Coromandel ranges the roar of fickle waves surge in snatching pockets of once crunchy-dry sand-grains.

In bed I sit in awe as the entire ocean front retreats on the horizon leaving nothing but wave print rivulets on the sand.

Screen Shot 2015-10-26 at 4.10.41 PM

Ruled by a circadian rhythm that ebbs and swells with the moon, the beachfront at Whangamata is tidal theatre.

As the waves depart the sand holds its breath, knowing the wet embrace of a never ending repeated return.

Fickle the waves are and best you remember this at Whangamata.

Whangamata all crunchy white sand and pumping waves is home to one of the world’s most legendary surf breaks.

And there’s one other incredible challenge at home off this beach. Perched offshore there beckons a local, an island –  vigilant and wild, a temptress mocking your bravado. ‘How brave are you? She sings, a siren daring you to run the gauntlet of an empty tidal beach, ‘jump in, she says,  just do it’.

wp-1476406525193.jpeg

Offshore dejected waves rumble and collude with her ‘go on, jump in, just do it!’

Screen Shot 2016-07-27 at 10.59.58 AM

Non locals beware, an emptied tidal beach looks placid and calm shimmering like a hypnotic giant ice skating rink made of sand, but the dangers in the return.

The danger as all locals know is getting caught unawares by the turn of the tide.

Off the emptied shore the island beckons, run to me, you can make it, touch me, snap a bough from my cover and run back to shore, before the tide returns, run back to shore a hero.

Whangamata Beach is tidal with one of the best surf breaks in New Zealand.

Screen Shot 2015-10-26 at 4.07.03 PM

Did I run the gauntlet, of course I did. As a kid.

Terrified – all high lifted knees and jerked elbows – adrenalin pumped full of joy. My head armed with pre-race real life stories, by  heroes who reached the island and returned.

The fact that the ocean was bursting to return was a given- Of course we knew we had to beat the ocean, and not one of us thought drowning an option. Not yet anyway.

Will I do it again?

No.

As a kid barefoot-nimble ignorance is bliss.

#surfwhangamata #taniwhanz #surfbeach #fishandchips #oysters #newzealandsurf #ilovenewzealand #ilovewhangamata

Screen Shot 2016-07-27 at 10.59.45 AM

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s